Did the lower leaves exhibit yellow tips followed by complete yellowing?
Are there any water-soaked, brown lesions on the stems and petioles, the stem may collapse causing several vines to wilt?
Are there no flowers, and the growth is stunted?
Are the leaves discolored, fine webbing may be present?
Are the leaves covered in coarse stippling and may appear silvery?
If your plant has yellow leaves and dies early the most likely cause is a fungal disease - Dry rot. There is no cure for dry rot, so the infected plants should be removed and destroyed. You should not replant new rhizomes in the same soil. Prevent dry rot by planting rhizomes in well-drained soil. Treating seed with Bordeaux mixture before planting and solarizing the soil can help to reduce the incidence of the disease.
Bacterial soft rot is caused by a bacterium that is common in most soils, particularly if the area is frequently planted with susceptible crops. Remove and destroy infected plants. Avoid planting in poorly draining soil. Rotate crops with corn, small grains, or grasses where possible. Plant saffron varieties that are resistant to the disease.
Bulb rot is a fungal disease that causes the bulbs to become mushy or dried out. The foliage becomes yellow and stunted, and the saffron may not flower. Dig up and discard infected bulbs. Bulbs purchased from a reputable dealer rarely develop bulb rot.
Spider mites are known to cause problems for saffron plants. Hose off plants when symptoms first appear. A strong stream knocks mites off plants and may give control. Introduce predatory mites. For severe infestations, spray plants with insecticidal soap or pyrethrin.
These symptoms may indicate thrips. Thrips are tiny, yellow to black flying insects. Severely infected plant parts should be removed and destroyed. Control thrips by introducing lady beetles or lacewings, their natural predators. Insecticidal soap helps in severe infestations.
Yellow, stunted plants and roots that have swollen galls indicate root-knot nematodes. Other symptoms are plants wilting during bright, hot days. Prevent root-knot nematodes by applying chitin or introducing parasitic nematodes to the soil before planting. Solarizing the soil also helps in preventing root-knot nematodes.
Satyagopal, K., S.N. Sushil, P. Jeyakumar, G. Shankar, O.P. Sharma, S.K. Sain, D.R. Boina, N. Lavanya, N.S. Rao, B.S. Sunanda, Ram Asre, R. Murali, Sanjay Arya, Subhash Kumar, V. Gupta, D. Kumar, V.K. Razdan, G. Mahendiran, H. P. Patnik, K.C. Sahu, S. N. Mohapatra, B. R. Patel, Surajit Khalko, Nripendra, Ayon Roy, Tapan Kumar Hath, H.S. Yadava. 2014. AESA based IPM package for Saffron. pp 31.
Ellis, B. W., Bradley, F. M., & Atthowe, H. (1996). The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press.
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Sreten null
Hi! I’m Sreten Filipović. I graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade, with a master's degree in Environmental Protection in Agricultural Systems. I’ve worked as a researcher at Finland's Natural Resources Institute (LUKE) on a project aimed at adapting south-western Finland to drought episodes. I founded a consulting agency in the field of environment and agriculture to help farmers who want to implement the principles of sustainability on their farms. I’m also a founding member of the nonprofit organization Ecogenesis from Belgrade whose main goal is non-formal education on the environment and ecology. In my spare time, I like to write blog posts about sustainability, the environment, animal farming, horticulture, and plant protection. I’ve also published several science-fiction short stories.
You can find me on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/sreten-filipovi%C4%87-515aa5158/