What Is Making My Bromeliad Sick?

Do the leaves have brownish welts filled with liquid on the undersides?

Do the leaves at the base of the plant turning brown or soggy?

Do the leaves have yellowish blisters that become dark and sunken as they age?

Is there a salty build-up on the leaves?

Are the tips of the leaves turning brown or there are brown or yellow spots on the leaves?

Are the leaves curled and stippled?

Do the leaves and stems have white, cottony clusters on them?

Are the leaves covered with small bumps?

Likely cause for these symptoms is a fungal disease - Rust. Rust attacks bromeliads usually if they are grown outside. Provide good air circulation around plants. Avoid making leaves wet when watering. Remove and destroy all debris before spring. All infected leaves should be removed. Spray leaves with sulfur early in the season to prevent rust or to treat mild infections. Do not use copper fungicides because bromeliads are sensitive to copper.

Bromeliads can be prone to root rot. Roots that perpetually sit in water will begin to rot causing damage to the entire plant. Prevent problems by planting bromeliads in well-drained potting soil, and do not overwater. Prune off all infected roots. If the root rot had taken most of the roots, the plant may be beyond saving.

Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that is known to attack bromeliads. Pick off and discard infected leaves, and spray the plant foliage every seven to ten days with sulfur. Do not use copper fungicides because bromeliads are sensitive to copper. Avoid wetting the foliage while watering. If you are growing your bromeliad outdoors, mulching around plants may help prevent fungi from being splashed up from the ground by rain.

This is a problem that occurs in bromeliads with leaves that form a tank where water is stored. Mineral build-up on the leaves comes from watering with tap water. As the tap water evaporates off the leaves and out of the central tank it leaves behind a mineral build-up. To remove the build-up spray the leaves with distilled water and wipe them down gently with a soft cloth. Watering the plant with rainwater will prevent the build-up from happening again.

If your bromeliad is sitting in a window that gets too much direct sunlight, it can scorch. Brown tips or light brown spots on the leaves are indications that the plant is getting too much sun. When you move a bromeliad outdoors for the summer, take care to ensure it is not exposed to too much direct sun.

Distorted, curled and stippled leaves are caused by aphids. These tiny insects cluster under leaves and on growing tips where they feed on plant sap. You can control them by washing them off the plant with water spray. Insecticidal soap should be used with severe infestations.

White, cottony clusters on leaves and stems are caused by mealybugs. These tiny insects are covered with a fluffy white coating. You can control them by washing them off the plant with water spray. Insecticidal soap should be used with severe infestations.

Leaves covered by small bumps are caused by scales. These tiny, shelled insects often feed on the undersides of the leaves, causing an unhealthy appearance with yellowish blotches on the upper leaf surfaces. Scrape off minor infestations with your fingernail. Prune out badly infested growth, or use a soft brush and soapy water to gently scrub the scales off the stems. Control scales by spraying insecticidal oil during the growing season.

If the flower is turning brown, wilting, and looks like it will die the cause is probably natural death. Unfortunately, the death of a bromeliad flower is inevitable. Most bromeliads flower only once. The plant may live for months or years even after the flower dies, but eventually, the plant will die too. Before the plants die they will produce offshoots called pups. The pups can be separated and replanted or left to grow in a clump.