Investigate Problem

Why Haven't My Beets Developed Well?

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proposes Do the leaves have purplish patches on them?

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Most common questions used to investigate

Do the leaves have purplish patches on them?

Are the leaves yellow and the plant is stunted?

Are the leaves yellow and curled?

Do the leaves have brown tips?

Do the leaves have dark-bordered, tan spots?

Do the leaves have light-colored spots on upper leaf surfaces, roots are distorted, with rough, cracked skin?

Are the leaves stunted and crinkled, roots are covered with hairy side roots and the flesh is woody?

Do the leaves have wandering, white or translucent tunnels in them?

Are the leaves riddled with small holes?

Do the leaves have large, ragged holes in them?

Do the roots have raised, rough, brown spots on the surface?

Do the roots have black, dead, hard spots in flesh?

Are the roots forked?

Are the roots small and poorly developed?

Common conclusions

Phosphorus deficiency causes purplish patches on beet leaves. This is common in cool spring soils. Plants usually outgrow problems when soils warm. Spray leaves with seaweed extract to speed up recovery.

Nitrogen deficiency causes yellow leaves and stunted look. This deficiency affects older leaves first. Spray foliage and drench roots with fish emulsion to alleviate symptoms.

Yellow and distorted or curled leaves usually indicate aphids. These tiny insects cluster under leaves and on growing tips where they feed on plant sap. Leaves become distorted and later drop from the plant. You can control them by washing them off the plant with water spray. Introducing ladybugs will keep their number low. Insecticidal soap or neem oil should be used with severe infestations.

Bright sun and 80°F temperatures may injure beet leaves. Plant in a partially shaded location or provide shade in climates with hot summers.

Leaves with gray-brown spots on them are caused by the fungal disease - Cercospora leaf spot. This fungal disease only occurs in very warm climates. Spots develop a “frog-eye” appearance with light centers and dark edges. Spray plants with copper as soon as symptoms appear to prevent further symptom development. Resistant cultivars are 'Big Red Hybrid’ and 'Red Ace'.

Leaves infected with the fungal disease, Downy mildew, have spots covered with white fuzzy growth on the undersides. Spray plants with copper when symptoms first appear.

Curlytop virus causes these symptoms. There is no cure once plants are infected. Destroy infected plants. Leafhoppers spread the virus as they feed. Control them with sprays of insecticidal soap or for severe infestations, neem or pyrethrin.

These symptoms are usually caused by Leafminers. These tiny white, maggotlike larvae feed inside leaves. Prune off and destroy all infested leaves. Cover plants with row cover until flowers open to prevent adults from laying eggs on plants. Certain nematodes can attack leafminer larvae inside leaf tunnels.

Small holes in leaves are caused by Flea beetles. These tiny, black, brown or bronze beetles hop when disturbed. Larvae are small and white, feed mostly on the undersides of leaves. Prevent problems by covering young plants with row cover. Control severe infestations by spraying or dusting plants with pyrethrin.

Beet armyworms or garden webworms cause this type of damage to the leaves. Handpick or spray actively feeding caterpillars with BTK in the evening.

Scab is a fungal disease that causes these symptoms. Prevent it by adding compost to the soil and plant in raised beds to improve drainage.

These symptoms usually indicate boron deficiency. Prevent deficiency problems by spraying plants with seaweed extract as soon as the first true leaves appear and every few weeks afterwards.

Forked roots indicate calcium deficiency. Prevent problems by keeping the soil evenly moist. If soil test shows deficiency, add gypsum or if pH is below 6.2, calcitic lime.

Nitrogen deficiency or crowded roots cause these symptoms. If leaves are small and yellow, feed plants with fish emulsion or compost tea to boost the nitrogen level. Thin plants so roots don't touch to allow further growth.

If the roots are unusually dark-colored it is due to potassium deficiency. Affected roots are prone to rot. If soil test confirms deficiency, amend the soil as needed.

References

Ellis, B. W., Bradley, F. M., & Atthowe, H. (1996). The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press.

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Author

Sreten null
Hi! I’m Sreten Filipović. I graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade, with a master's degree in Environmental Protection in Agricultural Systems. I’ve worked as a researcher at Finland's Natural Resources Institute (LUKE) on a project aimed at adapting south-western Finland to drought episodes. I founded a consulting agency in the field of environment and agriculture to help farmers who want to implement the principles of sustainability on their farms. I’m also a founding member of the nonprofit organization Ecogenesis from Belgrade whose main goal is non-formal education on the environment and ecology. In my spare time, I like to write blog posts about sustainability, the environment, animal farming, horticulture, and plant protection. I’ve also published several science-fiction short stories. You can find me on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/sreten-filipovi%C4%87-515aa5158/