Investigate Problem

Why Do The Fruits And Flowers On My Tomatoes Look Unhealthy?

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proposes Does your tomato have only a few formed flowers, that may drop without setting fruit?

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Most common questions used to investigate

Does your tomato have only a few formed flowers, that may drop without setting fruit?

Do you grow tomatoes in a shady part of the garden?

Have the outside temperatures been over 100° or below 55°F?

Does your tomatoes grow in a dry soil?

Does the fruit have large, faded or gray-white, sunken patches on them?

Have the fruit been gnarled and malformed with dry scars near the blossom end?

Does the fruit ripen unevenly and have grayish yellow blotches on the surface?

Does the fruit have green, water-soaked spots on them?

Does the fruit have pale yellow spots just under the skin, spots may have a central puncture?

Does the fruit have small, raised spots on them?

Are the spots tan with white margins and look like "bird's eyes"?

Does the fruit have concentrically ringed, sunken spots on them?

Do the spots appear on ripe fruit and eventually rot?

Does the fruit have black, sunken areas at the blossom end?

Does the fruit have narrow, black tunnels trough flesh and small holes near stem?

Does the fruit have small holes on the surface, the interior may be rotted and hollow?

Do the green fruits have large, chewed holes in them?

Common conclusions

Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of full sun to produce flowers. Plant tomatoes in a sunny area.

To high or too low temperatures may damage tomatoes and cause them to drop flowers without setting fruit. Protect plants with row cover until night temperatures remain above 55°E

Drought stress may cause flowers to drop. Keep soil evenly moist, but not soggy and do not allow it to dry out.

Tomatoes with excess nitrogen look vigorous but produce few flowers. Wait for flowers to form. Prevent problems by avoiding high-nitrogen soil amendments.

Sunscald causes these symptoms. Control leaf diseases to prevent defoliation. The fruit should be shaded and protected from direct sun.

These symptoms usually indicate a cold injury. The cold injury usually occurs when the cool weather is prolonged during blossoming. Protect plants with row cover until nights remain above 55°F.

These symptoms usually indicate Gray Wall. This condition can be caused by dense shade from crowded plants, cool temperatures (below 60°F) during ripening, wet or compacted soil, excess nitrogen, potassium deficiency or various diseases, including tobacco mosaic virus. Prevent problems by providing good growing conditions.

The fungal disease Late blight is the most likely cause. Spray plants with compost tea to help prevent further symptom development or with copper if the disease is severe.

These symptoms usually indicate stinkbugs. Many species of weeds are host plants. Keep the garden well-weeded to prevent problems.

The most likely culprit is bacterial canker. Destroy infected plants. To prevent problems, presoak seed in 10 percent bleach solution and avoid wounding plants.

Diseases bacterial spot or bacterial spec cause spots on tomato fruits and leaves. Spray infected plants with copper to prevent the development of further symptoms.

The Most likely cause is Anthracnose. Keep plants dry when watering to prevent spread. Spray plants with copper when the first fruit develops if you have had problems in the past.

Spots that appear near the stem while the fruit is green are symptoms of Alternaria blight. The disease occurs when plants are loaded with fruit and during humid, warm (75°-85°F) weather. Spray infected plants with copper and/or sulfur to prevent further disease development.

These symptoms usually indicate Blossom end rot. This condition is due to calcium deficiency in the fruit. Prevent problems by keeping the soil evenly moist and by spraying plants with seaweed extract when the first flowers open and again when green fruit is visible.

Tomato pinworms are the most likely culprit. Larvae are small and gray and may have reddish markings. Destroy infested fruit. Till soil after harvest to prevent pests from overwintering.

Tomato fruit worms are the most likely culprit. Once larvae are inside fruit, there is nothing to do but destroy the infested fruit. If you see larvae feeding on leaves before attacking fruit, spray plants with BTK to control.

Most likely cause is Hornworms. Handpick or spray plants with BTK to control them.

If fruits have cracks around stems your tomato might have been unevenly irrigated. Prevent problems by keeping the soil evenly moist throughout the season.

References

Ellis, B. W., Bradley, F. M., & Atthowe, H. (1996). The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press.

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Author

Sreten null
Hi! I’m Sreten Filipović. I graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade, with a master's degree in Environmental Protection in Agricultural Systems. I’ve worked as a researcher at Finland's Natural Resources Institute (LUKE) on a project aimed at adapting south-western Finland to drought episodes. I founded a consulting agency in the field of environment and agriculture to help farmers who want to implement the principles of sustainability on their farms. I’m also a founding member of the nonprofit organization Ecogenesis from Belgrade whose main goal is non-formal education on the environment and ecology. In my spare time, I like to write blog posts about sustainability, the environment, animal farming, horticulture, and plant protection. I’ve also published several science-fiction short stories. You can find me on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/sreten-filipovi%C4%87-515aa5158/