Investigate Problem

Why Do The Leaves On My Peas Look Unhealthy?

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proposes Have the leaves of your peas changed color?

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Most common questions used to investigate

Have the leaves of your peas changed color?

Are the leaves yellow and the growth is slow?

Are the leaves yellow and distorted?

Are there any oval, light green or brown bugs on your peas?

Are there any green or brown, spindle-shaped, winged insects on your peas?

Are the leaves yellow and the plant is stunted and wilting?

Are the leaves stippled or do they have spots?

Are the leaves stippled with white?

Do the leaves have water-soaked or white spots on them?

Do the leaves have holes in them?

Do the leaves have small holes in them?

Common conclusions

Yellow leaves and slow-growing peas usually indicate nitrogen deficiency or waterlogged soil. Spray plants and drench roots with fish emulsion or fish-meal tea to alleviate symptoms. Plant in raised beds to improve drainage and add compost before planting to prevent problems.

Tarnished plant bugs inject a plant-deforming toxin as they feed on young leaves. Trap them with white sticky traps or treat plants with a commercial pyrethrin spray or dust in the evening to control severe infestations.

Potato leafhoppers often attack peas. Nymphs are smaller and wingless. Infested leaves have curled margins and flowers or pods may fall off. Trap leafhoppers with yellow sticky traps or spray with insecticidal soap. Commercial neem or pyrethrin spray should be used if the infestation is severe.

Pea aphids are soft-bodied, small, light to dark green, sucking insects usually found on new growth. For light infestations, knock pests off plants with a blast of water. Spray plants with insecticidal soap in the evening to control, or with a commercial neem or pyrethrin spray if the infestation is severe.

The fungal disease Fusarium wilt causes peas' foliage to turn yellow and wilt. Stem near soil line is yellow-orange to black when cut open. If pods form, they contain few seeds. Destroy plants infected with this fungal disease. Resistant cultivars are ‘Bounty', ‘Daybreak', ‘Green Arrow', Knight’, ‘Maestro', ‘Oregon Sugar Pod 2 ', ‘Snowflake and ‘Sparkle’.

If the leaves are mottled and distorted your peas are suffering from Mosaic viruses. Viral diseases are incurable. Destroy infected plants. Control aphids and cucumber beetles that spread viruses and leguminous weeds, such as vetch, that can harbor viruses. Prevent problems by planting tolerant cultivars such as ‘Knight' and ‘Maestro’.

Mites often attack peas. Leaves will become bronzed when severely infested. These tiny, spiderlike insects thrive in hot, dry weather. Spray plants with insecticidal soap in the evening to control mites.

White or water-soaked spots on leaves are caused by fungal infections - Downy mildew or Powdery mildew. To control fungal diseases, thin plants to increase air movement. If the weather is wet spray sulfur in the evening. Resistant cultivars for downy mildew are ‘Green Arrow' and ‘Knight’, and for powdery mildew are ‘Bounty’, ‘Knight’and ‘Maestro'.

If leaves have light brown-purple spots on them they're suffering from a fungal or bacterial disease - Blight. Stems and pods are also spotted. Leaves may turn yellow and plants may die. Spray plants with copper if the weather is wet. Remove severely infected plants.

If the leaves have wandering, white or translucent tunnels in them the culprits are leafminers. These tiny white, maggotlike larvae feed inside leaves. Prune off and destroy all infested leaves. Cover plants with row cover until flowers open to prevent adults from laying eggs on plants. Certain nematodes can attack leafminer larvae inside leaf tunnels.

Cucumber beetles make small holes in leaves. Damage usually occurs in young plants. Beetles are yellow or greenish with spots or stripes. Treat plants with a commercial pyrethrin spray or dust if the infestation is severe. Cover emerging seedlings with row cover to prevent problems.

Caterpillars make large holes in leaves and sometimes even skeletonize entire leaves. Handpick them or spray plants with BTK if worms are feeding.

References

Ellis, B. W., Bradley, F. M., & Atthowe, H. (1996). The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press.

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Author

Sreten null
Hi! I’m Sreten Filipović. I graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade, with a master's degree in Environmental Protection in Agricultural Systems. I’ve worked as a researcher at Finland's Natural Resources Institute (LUKE) on a project aimed at adapting south-western Finland to drought episodes. I founded a consulting agency in the field of environment and agriculture to help farmers who want to implement the principles of sustainability on their farms. I’m also a founding member of the nonprofit organization Ecogenesis from Belgrade whose main goal is non-formal education on the environment and ecology. In my spare time, I like to write blog posts about sustainability, the environment, animal farming, horticulture, and plant protection. I’ve also published several science-fiction short stories. You can find me on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/sreten-filipovi%C4%87-515aa5158/