Is the fruit deeply furrowed or gnarled?
Can you see any insects on or near the strawberries?
Do the fruits have holes in them?
Can you see any silvery trails near the holes?
Can you see any leathery brown insects with pincers at their abdomen tips?
Has the fruit rotted?
Have the fruits turned into fuzzy balls?
Do the leaves have spots on them?
Do the leaves have a white powdery coating on them?
Are the leaves rolled up?
Are the leaves surrounded by frothy white mass?
Are the roots rotted and black?
Do the roots look like “rattails" (few or no side roots) and are they red inside when slit lengthwise?
Do the wilted plants' roots look healthy?
Do you see any small snout beetles or large clear-winged moths near your strawberries?
The insects are probably tarnished plant bugs. Control them by handpicking if the infestation isn't severe or use pyrethrin as a last resort.
Flowers damaged by frost will produce deformed, gnarled fruit. If spring frost threatens, cover beds overnight with a blanket.
Holes are caused by slugs and snails. Slugs and snails feed on the plant leaves and fruits usually at night. Use diatomaceous earth around your plants. You can also handpick them during the night or use shallow dishes filled with beer as a trap.
The bugs are Earwigs. Since they hide in dark places, trap them in short lengths of hose or rolled-up newspapers. Check traps and destroy captured earwigs daily.
Birds often feed on strawberries and leave holes in them. The best defense against birds is a net well-secured at the edges. You can also try making a scarecrow to keep them away from the strawberries.
The culprit is a fungal disease - Gray mold. Remove and destroy all rotten fruit. Thin plants to ensure good airflow around them and to reduce moisture around leaves. Applying compost tea spray will help as well.
Leather mold causes fruit to turn dark and leathery. Infected fruit is bitter-tasting. Remove and destroy all rotten fruit. Thin plants to ensure good airflow around them and to reduce moisture around leaves. Applying compost tea spray will help as well.
Leaves with spots may be caused by the diseases Leaf spot, Leaf blight or Leaf scorch. When severe, these diseases kill leaves, which weakens the plants. All 3 are fungal diseases that you can control by annual bed renovation. Resistant cultivars are 'Albritton,' 'Blakemore,' 'Earlibelle,' ‘Fairfax,' and 'Midland.'
A fungal disease - Powdery mildew causes the white powdery coating on leaves. Powdery mildew usually appears in damp places. Encourage good air circulation around the affected plants. Keep foliage dry when watering. Cut off and remove all affected leaves.
The culprits are caterpillars - Strawberry leafrollers. For light infestations, destroy the rolled leaves along with the caterpillars inside. For a very heavy infestation, apply BTK.
The most likely culprits for this condition are Spittlebugs. They hide inside the frothy masses of bubbles they produce and suck sap from leaves, stems, and flowers. Spittlebugs rarely cause significant damage. To control them, wash them off with a strong spray of water.
If the whole plant is stunted with chewed roots and crown, the culprits are Strawberry root weevils. Apply parasitic nematodes to the soil to control larvae. For severe infestations of adults, dust with pyrethrin.
Your strawberries have been affected by Black root rot. The only control is to plant new plants in well-drained soil at a new site, as black root rot fungus can survive up to 10 years in the ground.
Your strawberries have been affected by Red stele disease. The only control is to plant new plants in well-drained soil at a new site as red stele fungus can survive up to 10 years in the ground.
Small snout beetles are strawberry crown borers and the moths are strawberry crown moths. Their larvae cause plant wilting but the roots stay healthy. Cut crowns of wilted plants in half. If you find a large tunnel, your plants have been infected with one of these pests.The only cure is to dig up and destroy infected plants.
Verticillium wilt often causes plants wilting with no obvious damage to the roots. There is no cure. You must plant a new bed where you haven't grown strawberries or other Verticillium-susceptible plants like potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplants. Soil solarization may prevent the disease.
Ellis, B. W., Bradley, F. M., & Atthowe, H. (1996). The Organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press.
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Sreten null
Hi! I’m Sreten Filipović. I graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture at the University of Belgrade, with a master's degree in Environmental Protection in Agricultural Systems. I’ve worked as a researcher at Finland's Natural Resources Institute (LUKE) on a project aimed at adapting south-western Finland to drought episodes. I founded a consulting agency in the field of environment and agriculture to help farmers who want to implement the principles of sustainability on their farms. I’m also a founding member of the nonprofit organization Ecogenesis from Belgrade whose main goal is non-formal education on the environment and ecology. In my spare time, I like to write blog posts about sustainability, the environment, animal farming, horticulture, and plant protection. I’ve also published several science-fiction short stories.
You can find me on LinkedIn at https://www.linkedin.com/in/sreten-filipovi%C4%87-515aa5158/